Southern BBQ in Ontario Thoughts from the Pit
When my wife and I decided to start Buster Rhino's in 2006, we wanted an idea of the presence of authentic southern BBQ in Ontario. After some quick initial research we found that there really weren't too many options. When most Canucks think of ribs, they are almost always boiled or braised then put on the grill or in the oven and slathered in a commercial rib and chicken sauce to ensure they "fall off the bone" (for the record, step away from the pot of water!). Sure, there was the odd place selling pulled pork (usually made in an oven or slow cooker), and maybe a small BBQ joint here and there, but on the whole, true "low and slow" southern cooking was much of an anomaly north of the boarder.
Over the last few years the landscape has definitely changed. Southern BBQ has been featured prominently on the Food Network, local Ribfests have increased in popularity, and even some competitive BBQ teams have formed and participated in BBQ competitions both here and abroad. Given the interest in this unique cooking style, there have been a several restaurants in Ontario who have tried their hand at southern BBQ; many of whom have opened and closed very quickly, but for the few that remain, have been able to build an excellent local following. Many more are trying to jump on the bandwagon and it is anticipated that more BBQ joints will open soon. Even the major chains are recognizing this trend and trying to incorporate southern BBQ inspired items on their menus.
So, where does this leave southern BBQ in Ontario? I believe it is in a state of confusion due to the fact that there is no consistent message what "real" southern BBQ is. Add to that the people trying to attach themselves to this fast-growing concept, and I believe that the fundamentals and values that come with the southern BBQ method are at risk for becoming misused and diluted.
Having over 15 years of family experience in cooking, competing and living BBQ, I think it is time we re-educated ourselves on what is involved in the art of true southern BBQ.
Simply put, southern style BBQ is a technique of cooking that involves cooking meat for long periods of time at low temperatures over a wood fire to make them tender. This slow cooking over smoke leaves a distinctive line of red just under the surface, where the myoglobin in the meat reacts with properties of the smoke, and the smoky taste essential to southern BBQ. This method grew up in the poor southern United States, where both black and white cooks learned to slow roast tough cuts of meat due to the lack of availability of better product. Regional differences with respect to sauces, seasonings and smoking woods exist, but the common thread between all regions is the "low and slow" concept.
I am often asked my opinion about other BBQ restaurants in Ontario. I usually reserve my personal judgment for those really close to me due to the fact that I am a firm believer that if you haven't tried it, how do you know if you will like it or not? However, I will give the following advice: don't always believe what you hear since taste is so individually suited, you will hear things like too smoky, not smoky enough, too salty, too dry, not cooked enough - the list is truly endless and can be somewhat painful when you read others writing about it.
In the end I truly believe the only way to get people to understand southern BBQ and really enjoy it is to share my experiences, passion, thoughts and things I hear through my daily dealings with the public. My suggestion to you, if you are a lover of BBQ, is to go out and try several different BBQ restaurants. Worst case is you are not happy with some of the food you received and you don't go back. Additionally, keep an open mind. Some of the best food I have experienced in the south has been served in locations that our public health departments wouldn't even allow to be open. It's not about the ambiance, it's about the absolute love the Pit Boss has put into the food and whether or not you like it.
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